Getting out through the breakers is key. It’s pretty demoralising to be stuck in the same spot being smashed repeatedly by waves, especially with a longboard hauling you back into shore with each breaker.
The first key is the route and timing. To get out to the line up effectively you need to pick a route that allows you to cover the most distance without waves breaking on you or you being caught up in the breakers. A good idea for the less experienced is to watch where the other surfers are paddling out and try to get an idea of the pattern of the waves, looking for any lulls in the waves, the time between the sets etc.
On a longboard you generally have two options for getting through a wave. Firstly you need to approach the wave head on or it will be very awkward for you. You can either Push Up or Eskimo Roll through. The push up should be done on smaller breakers, you simply grab the rails next to your chest and push yourself up off the board and raising yourself onto either your knees or toes. It is important to keep your weight onto your arms and not transfer it to your legs, the board must also be kept as horizontal as possible allowing the major force of the breaker to pass between you and the board. Once the wave has passed lower yourself and resume paddling immediately to gain the forward momentum to meet the next wave.
The Eskimo Roll requires more effort and confidence but is a much better way of getting through bigger breakers. Slightly before the breaker hits the nose of your surfboard grab the rails forward of your chestline and flip the board over so you are underneath and the fins are in the air. Then using your arms and chest you need to wrestle your board through the waves, kicking your legs like a frog to give yourself some push against the waves force. The force of the wave should help tip you back the right way up, if not just flip yourself back over and resume paddling to the next wave.
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