Getting Through Waves (Longboard)

Getting out through the breakers is key. It’s pretty demoralising to be stuck in the same spot being smashed repeatedly by waves, especially with a longboard hauling you back into shore with each breaker.

 

The first key is the route and timing. To get out to the line up effectively you need to pick a route that allows you to cover the most distance without waves breaking on you or you being caught up in the breakers. A good idea for the less experienced is to watch where the other surfers are paddling out and try to get an idea of the pattern of the waves, looking for any lulls in the waves, the time between the sets etc.

 

On a longboard you generally have two options for getting through a wave. Firstly you need to approach the wave head on or it will be very awkward for you. You can either Push Up or Eskimo Roll through. The push up should be done on smaller breakers, you simply grab the rails next to your chest and push yourself up off the board and raising yourself onto either your knees or toes. It is important to keep your weight onto your arms and not transfer it to your legs, the board must also be kept as horizontal as possible allowing the major force of the breaker to pass between you and the board. Once the wave has passed lower yourself and resume paddling immediately to gain the forward momentum to meet the next wave.

The Eskimo Roll requires more effort and confidence but is a much better way of getting through bigger breakers. Slightly before the breaker hits the nose of your surfboard grab the rails forward of your chestline and flip the board over so you are underneath and the fins are in the air. Then using your arms and chest you need to wrestle your board through the waves, kicking your legs like a frog to give yourself some push against the waves force. The force of the wave should help tip you back the right way up, if not just flip yourself back over and resume paddling to the next wave.

Paddling Your Surfboard

Paddling is a key part of surfing. If you can’t paddle, you can’t get to and catch the best waves. Also if you can’t paddle effectively you will get stuck in the breakers, not pleasant trust me.

Firstly positioning on the board. You need to position yourself so you are in the centre of the board, otherwise it will pop out from under you. The weight along the centre also gives you the best balance to glide through the water and past the breakers to the good stuff. Next you want your feet just off the rear of the board, as you get more advanced raise your feet slightly out of the water to reduce your drag and help you paddle with less effort. Keep a position that allows you to have the nose of the board just out of the water but without making the tail drag in the water. Experiment with your position on the board, it varies depending on you height, weight and board size as to the best position for you.

To actually paddle reach forward with your arms, alternatively, cup your hands slightly and pull back. When pulling back you want your hands to be roughly a forearms depth and keep your movements nice and smooth. The smoother your arm movements the smoother the board in the water and the further and faster you travel on a single pull. Also don’t pull back too hard and force yourself, paddling with a good technique will always outstrip brute strength paddling.

Your paddling will improve with experience, as with most parts of surfing there is pretty much no substitute for water time. Some minor points to finish. Make sure your board is properly waxed, a slippery board will prevent you from doing anything useful in the water and the sight of it shooting out from under you will be very amusing to your friends. If you nose digs in then your weight is too far forward on the board and you need to shift back. The reverse is also true, if you feel like you are going nowhere try shifting forward on the board so the tail rises slightly.